“I mainly got interested in the Austrian-Hungarian history by listening to family members talk,” says Richard. He recalls one story where his grandfather, a boy of 14 or 15 when he was drafted into the victorious Austrian battle of Caporetto of October-Novemver 1917,  was severely wounded when a artillery fragment flew into the magazine of his rifle, causing his weapon to blow up in his hand, which was half torn away. Richard says the Austrian doctors were able to repair his grandfather’s arm to such a remarkable degree that save for the scars the wound left behind was able to regain the use of his hand.

Richard credits a brilliant teacher for cementing his lifelong interest in the former Austro-Hungarian Empire. “It really picked up when I was in high school and my history teacher, a very educated man with degrees in the subject, taught our class a lot about Austria-Hungary.” So, without further ado, here’s Richard Krotec with a brief history lesson on the Austro-Hungarian Army.

In the late-nineteenth century, the Habsburg Army was unique among the world’s great powers. In fact, it was not one single army, but three separate armies. There was the “common army”, called the Imperial and Royal army, or Kaiserlich und Koniglich (KUK). (Being common meant that the soldiers were recruited from both parts of the empire—from Austria and Hungary.) Then there was the Kaiserlich Koniglich Landwehr (KK), where the soldiers were drawn totally from the Austrian half of the empire. And there then there was the Ku Koniglich Ungarisch, also a landwehr, but better know by its Hungarian name Honved, which drew its soldiers from the Hungarian half of the empire.

Due to a lack of funding, the army was unable put weapons into mass production. Then from 1911 through 1912, Parliament passed an army act that allowed much more spending on the military. This was due in no small part to the Austrian Chief-of-Staff Conrad von Hotzendorf putting on the pressure to get what the army needed. But the budget came too late and could not change things drastically by the outbreak of WWI. The Austrian Army was starved of proper equipment and funding, and this lead to huge losses in November of 1914.

During the war, the tight control and military restrictions that the civilians in Parliment had were lifted, and despite what many American historians say, the Austro-Hungarian Army preformed very well considering the disadvantages the Empire faced. It hung on till the bitter end, collapsing only one week before the Prussian-German Empire. A tribute to the military prowess of the Habsburg Empire.

The Austrian Army went over to the offensive and struck the Russian Army at the victorous battle  of Krasnik as well as the battle of Kamarov. These two victories protected Germany from Russian troops advancing on Berlin, because the Austrians believed that Germany would follow up and link  up with Austrian forces to knock out Russia. But allied armies were thrown back with massive casualties because as allies complained, the Germans did not live up to their end of the bargain. After these disasters, the Germans finally sent a powerful contingent to the east to assist Austria-Hungary.

There’s been a lot of German criticism of Austria’s performance at the early stage of the war, but this is unfair as the Austrian chief of staff Conrad von Hotzendorf once said in his memoirs that the Austrian Army basically saved Germany from having Russian troops march on Berlin’s door step  after the battles of Krasnik and Kamarov  in August and September 1914. Of course, Germany’s assistance to Austria-Hungary should not be underestimated. Germany was indeed the senior partner in the alliance—that’s a fact. But that did not mean that Austria-Hungary could not hold its own. From 1914-1916, the Eastern Front was spilt up. And on the northern sector of the front, Austrian troops operated under German command. However, on the southern sector of the eastern front, German troops came under Austro-Hunagrian command in 1915 at the battle of Gorlice Tarnow. Germany’s chief of staff Falkenhayn  had two plans to consider: one drawn up by Ludendorf for Hindenburg, and the other by the Austro-Hungarian chief of staff Conrad von Hotzendorf. Falkenhayn came down in favor of Conrad’s plan. As it was a more sound battle plan, he took both plans to the German emperor Wilhelm II, but did not mention whose plan it was but agreed to pick Conrads Wilhelm II’s.  At Golice Tarnow, the offensive turned out a complete success.

If you are interested in reading more on the Austro-Hungarian Army, I recommend these four excellent books, which are all well illustrated. (You can get them on Amazon.com for around $40 to $50. Sometimes they are over $100, but you just have to sometimes wait and check back every few days to few weeks and you can find them cheaper.)

• Fighting Troops of the Austro Hungarian Army (1868-1914), by James Lucas
• Austro-Hungarian Infantry (1914-1918), also by James Lucas
• The Austro-Hungarian Forces in World War One, by Peter Jung, volumes 1 and 2 (these sell for $12 to $14 and are about 48 pages long)

Normally this is a great area to go hiking. During this time of year, however, it’s a winter wonderland as you can tell from the enchanting images recently sent to me from my friend, Klemen Klec, who lives nearby.

Today, the 136 that are still in possession of the castle make up Europe’s best tapestry collections. Visitors of the city may view them on public display at Wawel Castle. Definitely one of the city’s many must-sees. For more information and to purchase tickets, visit the castle’s website: http://www.wawel.krakow.pl/en/index.php?op=22

The Wickedness of the Human Race Before the Flood. Made in Brussels. circa 1553

Detail of Dragon Fighting a Panther (circa 1550)

Grotesque tapestry monogramed with Sigismund Augustus' initials, SA. Made in Brussels, circa 1550.

Monogrammed SA held up by satyrs. Made in Brussels, circa 1550.

Part of the Building of the Tower of Babel series. circa 1550. This tapestry was transferred to Cathrine II of Russia in 1795.

Images are the property of Klemen Klec. Please contact Bohemian Ink for permissions.

Welcome to Bohemian Ink! My name is Jessica Tudzin, and I began this blog shortly after moving to Budapest, Hungary in January 2010. I originally set out to write strictly about my adventures as an American expat discovering Central Europe. As it turns out, the adventure flew by much too fast, not quite two years, and I am now back in the good ole U.S. of A.—in sunny So Cal, to be exact. But my move abroad was not in vein. While living in Budapest, I earned a masters degree in Central European history at Central European University (CEU), and gained a deep appreciation for the art, architecture, music, folklore, and literature of region.

I gave a lot of thought about how I would like to continue this blog. I still have many images and stories to share. I also discovered on my return that my experiences abroad has changed my perception of my native city, Los Angeles.  For instance, knowing that Rudolf Schindler and Richard Neutra—two architects instrumental in the mid-century modern architecture of Los Angeles and Palm Springs—both came from Vienna, Austria, has me looking more closely at the residential homes in my home city, and making comparisons to the ones I saw in Vienna. Such comparisons are not limited to just the architecture. I find myself doing it with art, literature, and even food.

So, as the name of this site implies, I’m going full-blown bohemian—meaning eclectic with an edge of erudite—and will present all things Central and Eastern European as they are expressed in Southern California. I still plan to share stories and images of my experience in Central Europe—I have many. And hope to convince some of my fabulous friends back in Croatia, Slovenia, and Hungary to contribute something from time to time. As I have stated in an earlier post, I am of the belief that when one understands the culture and history of a foreign land, one can more fully appreciate its art, music, architecture, food, and drink. And therein lies the mission of Bohemian Ink: To enhance your travel experience, whether it be to the Pacific Coast or through Central Europe, and (with any luck) provide you with deeper, more meaningful memories of your time there. But if nothing else, to simply provide a little mind candy to those driven by curiosity. You know who you are.

Previously, I worked as a senior editor for the American publication Robb Report, where I wrote extensively on travel, dining, wine, and spirits for the luxury traveler. My words and images have appeared in Whole Life Times, The Dallas Morning News, Golf Digest, Worth Magazine, MotorCycling, Robb Report, Robb Report Collection, Robb Report Vacation Homes, Robb Report Luxury Hotels, and Robb Report Luxury Resorts. Though I am well versed in the luxury lifestyle, at heart I am a gypsy, meaning I go where the wind blows and try to find meaning in the experience. I hope you enjoy this journey with me.

PS – Feel free to drop a line with any thoughts, suggestions, praise, critiques, or just to say hello at jessicat@bohemianink.net

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On a recent visit to the downtown area, I came across our Sister Cities sign. Featured among the 25 cities are Split, Croatia; Berlin, Germany; St. Petersburg, Russia; and  Kaunos, Lithuania.

I also came across a very short street—just two blocks long—with a very long name: General Thaddeus Kosciuszko Way, located on the corner of the Disney Music Hall, across the street from MOCA. Before January 17, 1978, the street was known as Second Place. It was a Polish-American little old lady from Burbank—Mary Dziadula—who initiated the change. According to a Los Angeles Times article from the time, the street almost never came to be, as city council argued that the name was too long to fit on a street sign. The late Artur Zygmont, founder of the Polish American Cultural Network (PACN), adds that the name was also too hard to pronounce.

Dziadula had come from a military family. Her brother served in World War II, as did her husband who also served in Korea and retired as a Major. According to Zygmont, Dziadula took up a one-woman crusade to rename Second Place to honor Polish American who served in the U.S. military, the most famous being General Thaddeus Kosciuszko, who never even stepped foot in Los Angeles. He did, however, serve in the American War of Independence (1775-83). And thanks to Dziadula, his name now graces a Los Angeles street, in one of the most cultural spots in the city. Thank you, Mary Dziadula, wherever you are.

(feature image by Scott Warren; others by Jessica Tudzin)

One of the first signs that spring is approaching Budapest is when tables and chairs (draped with blankets) begin to appear outside local cafes. When spring hits full swing, the sidewalks will completely transform to accommodate the cafe society.

Another sign is the sudden appearance of street performers.

The first half of March is still very cold. But the clear blue skies often tempt flower shops into outdoor displays. By April, flowers will fill the city, both from the shops and in the local parks.

While we see tour busses in Budapest all year long, we begin to see an influx of visitors around this time. Rarely, however, is the city overrun with tourists so often found in other European cities. Budapest is definitely Europe's best kept secret.

When the weather begins to change, Budapesti's get their work-out on. Pictured are joggers along the Danube.

Kafka on Shoulders of Invisible Man

Consult the Urban Dictionary under the word “bohemian” (spelled with a lowercase B), and you will get a definition that reads: “[Someone] who leads an alternative lifestyle. They are not hippies because they can have an extremely wide range of different tastes in music, fashion, art, literature, etc., and they are usually very creative people. They are above all optimists, even if they can be very cynical too. They like wearing a mixture of weird clothes and mix different fashions together just for the heck of it.” Though the physical Kingdom of Bohemia is no more, the spirit of the bohemian continues to rule the region it once occupied, and none more so than in its public art. Below, a collection of images from Prague, a truly Bohemian city, in every sense of the word.

Words and images by Jessica Tudzin. Please respect copyright.xxxx

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In 1393, the Bohemian king Wenceslaus ordered St John of Nepomuk (the country's patron saint) thrown off the Charles Bridge because he would not reveal the confessions of the queen. This site on the bridge marks the spot he was thrown. Legend has it that stars appeared around the saint's head the moment he hit the water

Stained glass window by Alfons Mucha, St Vitus Cathedral

The Stroch House in Old Town

Peeing Men, located at the entrance of the Kafka Museum, by Czech artist David Cerny.

It's common for couples to write their names on a padlock, then lock it on this gate on the Mala Stana near the Lennon Wall (see link below).

During the 1989 Velvet Revolution, crowds of protesters jostled their keys in the air, the sound a musical gesture of non-violent protest. To commemorate the moment, artist Jill David created this sculpture made from 85,741 keys, spelling Revolution

Cubist light post

Statue of young woman, Kampa Park

Even the graffiti in Prague is creative. This one is located in Kampa Park

The facades of many historic buildings in the city are covered in sgraffito, a painting technique introduced by the Italian artists that the Bohemian burghers often employed.

Architectural details on a local restaurant

Located in a mall, David Cerny's parody sculpture of Dead Horse ridden by King Wenceslaus

WWII propaganda poster is one among many on exhibition at the entrance of the Royal Gardens

Statue honoring Mozart's Don Giovanni, which debuted in Prague on October 29, 1787.

Prague's narrowest street is equipped with a traffic light so that pedestrians won't collide with each other. The street with no name leads from U Luzickeho seminare street to a restaurant near the Charles Bridge.

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Lennon vs Lenin

Kampa Museum, Prague